Die Mine des holzgefassten Bleistifts besteht seit gut 220 Jahren aus Graphit und Ton. Diese bewährte Mischung bietet jedoch bei sehr dünnen Minen nicht die Bruchfestigkeit, wie man sie z. B. für mechanische Bleistifte braucht. Erfolg bei der Suche nach Alternativen hatte das japanische Unternehmen Pentel, das 1960 die 0,9-mm-Feinmine auf den Markt brachte, für die statt Ton Polymere als Bindemittel eingesetzt werden. Dieses Verfahren wurde ständig weiterentwickelt und macht sogar Minen mit einem Durchmesser von nur 0,2 Millimetern möglich.
Pentel verband später beide Welten und stellte 1986 den Holzbleistift Pentel Black Polymer 999 mit einer 2 Millimeter starken Polymermine1 vor. Dieser Bleistift, der bis 2011 erhältlich war, gibt mir bis heute Rätsel auf, denn ich weiß nach wie vor nicht, wer ihn hergestellt hat2. Doch es gab diese besondere Mine auch für Fallminenstifte, und zwar von Uchida, einem der beiden größten japanischen Anbieter von Zeichenzubehör3.
Das Etui mit der Artikelnummer 826-04094 enthält sechs 120 mm lange Minen mit einer kleinen transparenten Kunststoffhülse am Ende, die verhindert, dass die Mine bei geöffneter Klemmzange herausfällt5; dazu findet sich auf der Rückseite des Etuis ein erklärender Text6.
Ist es wirklich eine Polymermine wie im Pentel Black Polymer 999? Ja, denn sie hat die gleichen Eigenschaften: Sie gleitet außerordentlich leicht, hat eine saubere Abgabe, schwärzt hervorragend, ist sehr gut radierbar und zeigt auch das typische leichte Haften. Es überrascht aber, dass sie erheblich weicher ist als ihr holzgefasstes Pendant, ja sogar weicher als 2B7.
Mit einem Mitsubishi/uni Hi-uni (vermutl. 1980er Jahre) und dem Minenspitzer Tortoise
Es bleiben allerdings Fragen: Wer hat diese Minen hergestellt? Wann waren sie erhältlich?
- Der Vollständigkeit halber sei erwähnt, dass es hier um die gebrannte Polymermine geht (in Fachkreisen auch „abgeleitete Polymermine“ genannt). Die ungebrannte findet man z. B. in den extrudierten Bleistiften von STAEDTLER aus „Upcycled Wood“ (ursprünglich WOPEX, später Noris Eco).↩
- Von Pentel kam vielleicht die Mine (da habe ich widersprüchliche Informationen), nicht aber die Holzfassung, denn soweit ich weiß, hatte Pentel nie eine Holzbleistiftfertigung. – Pentel bot damals noch andere Bleistifte mit Polymermine an, die sich interessanterweise in der Rezeptur unterschieden. Mit dem Eyeball Olen Mark Sheet, dem Kutsuwa Orenpitsu und dem Kutsuwa Hokusign sind auch heute noch Holzbleistifte mit Polymermine erhältlich.↩
- Der andere ist Drapas.↩
- Über diese konnte ich herausfinden, dass diese Minen auch in 3H (-0413), 2H (-0412), H (-0411), F (-0410) und B (-0408) angeboten wurden. Gab es noch weitere?↩
- Siehe dazu „Kunst und Technik“.↩
- Unter dem Aufkleber steht „UCHIDA YOKO CO., LTD.“↩
- Ich habe leider keine weicheren Grade des Pentel Black Polymer 999 und kann daher keine weiteren Vergleiche vornehmen.↩
Great story. So interesting! Thank you, Gunther. I hope some day the 999 will be revived or improved upon. But maybe the secret lies within the Japanese supply chain. A trade secret lost?
I’m happy to hear that you like it, Wowter!
I don’t think that a trade secret has been lost because there are still pencils with polymer leads available; presumably they all come from the same manufacturer. The Pentel Black Polymer 999 was discontinued but the production of polymer leads probably continued throughout (or was only temporarily stopped).
A revival of the Black Polymer 999 would be great! And I’d love to see a better finish ;-)
That is great news. I did not know that! So you can still buy pencils with leads or mechanical pencil leads that have the same quality as those from the Pentel 999. I thought Pentel developed a special recipe for polymer leads with superb black pigment. And some subcontractor made it according this exact ‘secret’ recipe for them. That would have been the business/trade secret since it was difficult to reverse engineer. How interesting and complicated Japanese manufacture!
Super interesting! Gunther, thank you for featuring this interesting item. I am going to have to try and purchase some modern Uchida leads, just to test. And I also wish there was more information „on the record“, but this post is a good start.
Wowter and Stephen, thank you for your comments.
Wowter: In principle, the composition of the Pentel Black Polymer 999 leads and the thin leads for mechanical pencils is very similar but there are probably differences in the formula and the manufacturing process (and the Pentel Black Polymer 999 had at least two different leads as this article shows). Further differences in writing characteristics can result from impregnation.
Stephen: I look forward to hearing what you have to say about the modern Uchida leads! Yes, I would also like to have more information but it is very tricky to find any.
The term “polymer lead” refers to various types of leads which differ significantly. A while ago I created this diagram (without any claim to completeness):
P.S.: I have just realised that the Uchida leads do not fit into any of the product categories in the diagram; I will update it on the next occasion.
These leads are extremely interesting. Would never have thought that polymer was ever used on leads bigger than 1.4mm. Even thou some leads like those from Caran d’Ache are quite smooth, it would be nice to have a polymer alternative that could feel like those beloved Pilot Neox leads that you and I like so much. Do these leads feel anything like those?
So Uchida still produces lead holder leads to this day?
As far as I know 2 mm polymer leads appeared first in the Pentel Black Polymer 999 woodcased pencil in 1986.
I think that the special smoothness of the Caran d’Ache leads is due to the impregnation. – Of course the Uchida leads are similar to the Pilot thin leads because both are polymer-bound. However, they aren’t identical.
No, Uchida doesn’t offer 2 mm polymer leads anymore; the ones shown here have been discontinued long ago.
Do you think it is more expensive to produce polymer leads than traditional ones? In the case of softer leads, 8B comes to mind, it would be great to have a polymer version of those leads, specially in 2mm size. Current ones break quite easily, even in 3.2mm guise.
I don’t know the manufacturing process of polymer leads but I suspect that it is somewhat more complex than that of conventional leads, if only because of the gases that are produced by burning the PVC must be properly discharged.
I have the Black Polymer 999 pencil in F and H too, and they are very different ( i. e. very hard) so I wonder if polymer leads can be made in as many hardness grades as traditional leads and have the same usage characteristics.
Considering I own a few packs of Staedtler’s 6H polymer leads in 0.5mm, I would be inclined to think that polymer leads can be made in a wide rage of grades. But maybe demand is not there.
BTW Are Mitsubishi Nano-Dia pencils polymer-based too?
I know that thin polymer leads can be had in these grades but wondered about 2 mm ones. I wouldn’t be suprised if factors such as expansion/shrinkage etc. play a major role and make production more difficult.
From my last test of the Mitsubishi/uni Nano Dia woodcased pencils I don’t think that they have polymer leads – they have neither that typical glide or that slight stickiness and aren’t as break-resistant.
One thing is for sure, these leads should be more costly to produce, otherwise they would be used in many more products in this age of profit over all else.
Thanks for the details on the Nano Dia pencils Gunther!
I think so too but these refills have another disadvantage for the manufacturer – they last longer. In my experience, you can write about 1.5 times longer with the Pentel Black Polymer 999 than with a conventional pencil.
If you compare vintage pencils with current ones you’ll notice that the older ones often write longer. This is due to the fact that the lead mass was usually compressed more, which of course cost energy and material. If you do without this, you reduce production costs and can sell more pencils. – Incidentally, equipment such as three-roller presses were used at the time to not only compact the lead mass but also to break up agglomerates and thus make the leads more homogeneous.
You’re welcome!
Interesting! That explains why recent pencils tend to have a lot of grit on their leads. Even those from Staedtler and even Tombow.
Isn’t it ironic that in the age of expensive stationary, and when disposable items are an insult to our very existence, manufacturers still look out for ways to cut costs?
So basically, since the Black Polymer is prohibitively expensive these days, writing with a lead holder is quite an attractive alternative!
The grit may also be due to the graphite and clay not being ground fine enough, and if it’s really bad, e. g. if you encounter hard pieces then the graphite has not been cleaned properly and still contains quartz, feldspar or mica, of which even the smallest amounts are very annoying.
By the way, did you know that Mitsubishi/Uni does not grind the materials for its Hi-uni pencil leads evenly but instead ensures a certain dispersion of the particle size in order to achieve a better packing density? I also suspect that the Hi-uni is given a special impregnation which contributes to the fact that it is an exceptional pencil.
Speaking of impregnation: This actually very important aspect of the pencil lead is rarely discussed, and the manufacturers are also very secretive about it. And: Some leads are poor mainly because they are not impregnated.
Yes, this bad, cheap stuff where there is always someone who makes it even worse and cheaper is really an insult.
I don’t think that the 2 mm polymer lead is so expensive to produce today because the Hoksign and the Orenpitsu, both from Kutsuwa and with polymer leads, are available at acceptable prices. The fact that these leads are no longer offered for leadholder is probably solely due to the fact that there is no significant market for them.
Yes, it’s quite annoying when a pencil displays some grit. Like writing with a nail! Most modern cheap pencils sold on our market suffer from this.
Wasn’t aware of Mitsu’s special process. That helps explain why most of their pencils are amongst my favorites. Gotta admit thou, that I prefer Caran d’Ache Grafwood or FC 9000 pencils for drawing over the Hi-Uni for drawing purposes. Their leads render in a more uniform way and are true to grade, while Hi-Uni tend to be darker. Really looking forward on getting my hands on a Mars Lumo tin box with 24 grades to compare.
What’s your take on Kitaboshi’s 9606 pencil?
Caran has quite impressive impregnation method. Their leads are buttery smooth. Even those for mechanical pencils. If you press me, I think Caran leads are maybe on par with Neox. Sadly, they only manufacture those on 0.7mm and in HB and B grades. But totally agree with you, impregnation is quite an interesting topic. Do you know if they all use wax for this?
Yes, Mitsubishi leads and most other Japanese leads tend to be one or one to two grades darker and softer than European and US leads (with some Caran d’Ache leads the difference is even larger).
I can’t remember testing the Kitaboshi 9606, and I’m not sure if I have it at all. I will look for it and test it.
I have not yet found out which impregnating agents are used. However, I’m pretty sure that they are of both plant and animal origin. Derwent, for example, states: “Derwent Graphic Pencils B, HB, F, H, 2H, 3H, 4H, 5H, 6H, 7H, 8H and 9H are all free from animal products.” I think this can only be due to the impregnation.
Interesting information. Wasn’t aware that they used plant-based materials for this. I was under the impression that wax was widely in the industry. Remember a FC video on pencil manufacturing that referred to it. Also some of my old leads have a distinctive white film over them, which disappears if you pass them over a heat source.
What’s your take on Derwent pencils? I’ve never used them extensively. Actually if memory still serves me well, I only own a couple graphite pencils (from the time they had a different name) and current charcoal pencils.
You should try the Kitaboshi pencil. I tend to like the tactile feedback it gives and the way it writes. The only thing I dislike about it, is that is eraser-topped.
Again, I’m not sure what fats, waxes, etc. are used, and on top of that, I have absolutely no knowledge of these substances. – The white film is typical and can often be found on the leads of old pencils.
By the way: It is easy to determine whether a lead is impregnated. Remove a piece of lead from the wood, free it from wood and glue residue and hold it in a lighter flame. If the lead is impregnated, you can see how the impregnation becomes liquid before it evaporates or burns. If the lead is not impregnated, you will not see any wax melting, only a sooty flame.
I used a Derwent pencil a long time ago, but I can’t remember the details. So it didn’t leave any particular impression ;-)
I will try the Kitaboshi 9606! – Regarding the eraser tips: I am always surprised that the ferrule is attached so primitively in most cases. In very few cases it is round-pressed, and that looks much better. I would have expected Japanese manufacturers in particular to have a more clever finish.
Interesting info. Will definitely do testing on some pencils. Thanks for the tip.
BTW Faber and Staedtler leads are underrated. Been using them lately and found them to be of excellent quality, specially for art applications. The color leads from Staedtler are phenomenal in their rendering, color tone and resistance. Far better than modern Uni/ Pilot leads or vintage US-made ones.
Also, Staedtler’s tube design is brilliant, just as their lead containers for Mars Technico lead holders.
Glad I managed to get my hands on some NOS color lead tubes from Staedtler.
Which Faber-Castell and STAEDTLER leads are you referring to? If 2 mm: I’m not familiar those from Faber-Castell but the ones from STAEDTLER’s are very good and indeed underrated. And which colour leads from STAEDTLER do you mean?
I like that STAEDTLER includes a coloured push button in their 2 mm lead containers. This is very useful!
I was referring to the leads used by mechanical pencils (0.3, 0.5, 0.7 and 0.9). With all the fascination for Japanese leads, kind of ignored the German offerings.
And yes, Steadtler leads for lead holders are second to none and their containers are the best I’ve ever seen.
BtW I happen to own a fake pack of Staedtler leads that was distributed alongside a Steadtler 980 lead holder (all metal unit similar to one sold by Alvin). Those leads are made in China and you can spot them from a mile away. The logo they put on it screams fake. It was sold by Staedtler USA in the early 2000 I think. Quite an embarrassment if you ask me.
Faber is also extraordinary, specially the color versions. Their pigments are pretty much unrivaled. Remember a green A.W. Faber Buro Stift pencil you once gifted me? I have done quite a few awesome drawings with it in monotone. Will send you an email with the image of a piece I particularly like.
Speaking of thin graphite leads from German companies: Did you know that the old STAEDTLER Mars micro carbon leads were the only ones without PVC? Unfortunately, they have recently been discontinued and have been replaced by leads made in Korea. And the last time I have checked Faber-Castell leads some grades were made in Germany and some in Brazil.
Ah, the horrible 980 – if I remember correctly the now defunct website Leadholder had some less than respectful words about it. As the production of the 980 was commissioned by STAEDTLER USA, this was undoubtedly embarrassing.
Yes, I remember the A.W. Faber Bürostift! And of course I’d be happy if you could send me an image of your drawing.
No, wasn’t aware of that. Did you happen to know what they used instead?
Sad to hear that those wonderful German leads are now discontinued. Really sad to see that many iconic German products are pretty much a thing of the past. FC’s products that are sold on our market are mostly made in Brazil, China and just and only some of those aimed at the art market are German. Rotring is Japan or Chinese-made, Lamy is now a Japanese-owned company, and so on and so forth. Time to buy Micro Carbon NOS that I can still find here!
Recently been rediscovering my old 779 and Triplus mechanical pencils (which I happen to like a lot) and been using German-made Staedtler lead on them. I find it quite different in feel than that of the Japanese manufacturers. Less waxy-feeling, less dark (but not faint), longer lasting. Can’t quite describe the feel, but think of the difference between a Hi-uni pencil and a Tombow Mono 100 (Staedtler’s being the Mono 100). I kind of prefer them for writing purposes. Glad I have many grades on my stash.
BTW never seen a Staedtler product manufactured in Mexico. Back in the 70’s, pretty much every big brand from the US, Europe and Japan, had manufacturing concerns here. Faber, Pelikan, Rotring did, but Staedtler AFAIK seems to be a glowing exception.
No, I don’t know what they have used instead.
Yes, it’s a loss – these leads were unique. Fortunately there a still retailers who have some in stock. – This is the globalisation … However, I don’t think that everything will get worse and I think that Mitsubishi/LAMY, for example, will come up with excellent products.
Do you mean the STAEDTLER graphite 779? Your observations are interesting. Would you say that the German-made STAEDTLER leads feel a little “drier” than the Japanese ones? – By the way, did you know that the STAEDTLER graphite 779 is remarkably similar to the Faber-Castell Grip 1335?
I have also never heard that STAEDTLER has ever produced in Mexico.
Would like to be as optimistic as you regarding Lamy, but the truth is, not a single stationery brand being swallowed by a bigger one has come out as a better brand than it was before. Hope to be mistaken.
As for the Staedtler leads, yes, a bit drier but more tactile. They don’t get “numb” on the non-edge side as they wear out, hope am making myself clear.
Can’t find a photo of the Faber pencil, but those I see look a bit thicker than the Staedtler’s graphite 779. Do you happen to have a photo of it?
I think I can understand you – just thinking of FILA and Newell-Rubbermaid is enough for me … However, I am very confident about Mitsubishi/uni because I don’t know of any bad products from this manufacturer and I assume that they see the takeover of LAMY as an opportunity to bring more excellent products onto the market. Just imagine a LAMY-designed pen with a Jetstream refill!
I have looked again and have realised that I have mixed up the STAEDTLER graphite 779 (Germany) with the STAEDTLER Elite 9705 (USA). At „The Mysterious Kotobuki“ you can see the latter side by side with the Faber-Castell Grip 1335.
Used to be a fan of Lamy for many years, but their pens quickly grew tired on me. Nowadays they only have two different fountain pen variants in their lineup, those that use their interchangeable nibs and cartridges and the Lamy 2000. So pretty much from the Safari to the Dialog, are pretty much the same pen with a different body and an upscaled nib on some models.
Looking at their home page today, featuring prominently “Digital writing” useless crap and frankenpens assembled from mix-matching sections and barrels between Safari and Al-Star pens, quickly reminded me why I might never buy another Lamy in my life again.
So yes, I can imagine a Lamy-designed pen with a jetstream refill, then I see the Uni Jetstream Edge, then I think that the former will set me back close to €50, while the latter just over $10 for a fancy version… guess what I will be buying?
Thanks for the link to the Staedtler pencil. Never seen it or heard about it. Yet interesting find!
LAMY has been out of steam for a few years now, and we’re probably not the only ones who can do without “Digital writing”. And when it comes to combining colours, I’d rather buy another Pentel Smash in snappy colours than a LAMY Safari (even if you certainly can’t compare the two).
You’re right about the Jetstream Edge! By the way, you can easily and cheaply turn it into a mechanical pencil with a Zebra Sarasa Select pencil mechanism :-)
Just the other day, Zebra had a stand at a local mall and much to my surprise, the Sarasa lineup was displayed prominently on it. Not sure if they sell the components, but you got intrigued. If I can’t get them here, will source them from Jetpens. Would love an Edge with a mechanical pencil on it.
BTW I just bought a couple of Staedtler Mars micro carbon lead packs (the new Korean-version) and I’ve been comparing it over the older German-made leads. There is indeed a difference!
The new lead is a tad lighter in its mark, feels a bit less smooth (has a firmer feel) and renders the graphite in a much less textured way. But what really got me, was that it is twice as expensive as the leads from Zebra!!
Wonder how many people will buy these. I, for one, prefer to stock-up on the old version.
Great to hear about the Zebra stand! The Sarasa pencil insert works perfectly in the Mitsubishi/uni Edge, and if you cut it to 95 mm there’s is no play, neither when operating nor when writing (see more at Knockology). – Speaking of Zebra: Do you know (or even have) the Zebra Sharbo X ST3 or LT3 multi pen? I have the latter and I think it’s one of the best multi pens you can get.
Thank you for the details regarding the new STAEDTLER leads. That doesn’t sound like an improvement!
I’ve seen the Sharbo on some videos but don’t have one. Would be interesting to know if Zebra imports them here. BTW Jetpens only have pencil components for the Sharbo, not for the Sarasa. Seems it would be easier for me to buy a Sarasa multipen from Amazon and do the conversion.
It’s worth keeping an eye out for the Zebra Sharbo X ST3 and LT3 multi pens!
JetPens still have some pencil components for the Sarasa at Zebra Sarasa Select Pencil Component. However, the 0.7 mm version is no longer available and the 0.3 mm verson is marked with “last chance”. According to this video from the Tokyo Pen Shop the Sarasa Select has been discontinued.
Will look for those. Thanks for the link of the components. All that appeared to me, were made for Sharbo.
BTW Have you noticed that the Staedtler Mars micro 775 is no longer German-made? It has been replaced by a Japanese-made one. Noticed this after ordering a couple and one of those was the new edition. Kind of prefer the German one thou. BTW The Japanese one screams third-party manufacturer out loud.
It is worth keeping an eye out for the Sarasa Select pencil components! They are inexpensive and easy to cut to size.
Thank you for that detail regarding the STAEDTLER Mars micro 775! I did not notice the change of manufacturer but that’s because I’m not particularly interested in this pencil. What differences are there? And do these also have an effect on use?